Wednesday, April 4, 2012



A little geology lesson, if I may.
This region is known as ‘basin and range’ topography. Millions of years ago the churning inferno in the mantle a thousand kilometers under us attempted to rip the continent into two pieces, but it had a tough time doing it so finally gave up and quit. That left a deep rift trending north-south sort of along the California/Nevada border and in fact further north as well. The surface expression of that failed rift is a number of deep, flat bottomed valleys with a series of mountain ranges between them. Death Valley is one of them, but it has several parallel neighbours. The upshot of this is that as you traverse the region in a west-east direction, you keep climbing up and over mountains and crossing wide, flat valleys, I am now in the fourth such valley. The summit of the mountain pass to the west is about 5000 ft. As I came down the eastern flank there were signs announcing 4000 ft, 3000 ft, 2000 ft… I felt like I was coming in for a landing! The last time I descended so far and so fast I was in a 747.

Tonight I am camped out in the desert at Stovepipe Wells and the elevation is about sealevel.
The Bruiser arrives at Death Valley


Joshua trees dot the landscape in the less arid regions outside the Death Valley reserve.










The temperature was a comfortable 25 C for much of the day, dropping to about 18C at the summits and about 30C  when I stopped for the day.

Nice placenames!

If you look over the edge you will see the bottom of Death Valley, 5000 ft below









The big lesson I have learned here is to fill the gas tank and the water bottles at every opportunity. I was counting on a fill up at Tondo but the station had no gas. The next one was at Panamint Springs 50 miles away.
 “And between here and there there ain’t nothin’!” offered a helpful local. And he was quite right.
Miles and miles of nothin' but miles and miles.

When I did stop for gas there it was about $1.50/gal more than the normal price. Quite exorbitant, I thought. But after I did some arithmetic if figured it is still a few cents less than it was in North Vancouver when I left!

Often I would encounter a realty sign announcing a property for sale at a location far out in the absolute bugger-alls. Houses or trailers were perched on an unshaded slope like toaster ovens on a shelf.  Now, I do understand the motive of the vendor (somewhat more than I do the property owners who are staying put) but have to wonder how the realtors make a living here.

I would say it is a buyers’ market.



My little camp in the desert.

Exquisite!











Notice the little lizard tracks in the sand at the edge of the brush.









At the time of this posting I have found my way out of Death Valley and am in metro Pahrump. Seriously.
Internet has been rather scarce for me lately.

More later!