Saturday, May 12, 2012

Under The Volcano

At high latitude and high elevation it really is winter here. There were significant snowbanks at the roadside as we climbed up and over the pass this morning. Some really nice twisties also presented themselves on good road, but the cold temperature rendered the road surface as well as my reflexes a bit untrustworthy so I held it back somewhat.

It ain't summer yet!

I have been warned about icy roads, rough roads, tsunami, wind gusts, steep hills, landslides, even earthquakes. What next! And really, what are we supposed to do with that?

On the morning of Sunday, May 18, 1980 my colleague Barry Duguid and I were bussing our students back from a science field trip on the west coast of Vancouver Island. As we arrived at Departure Bay everyone was abuzz at the news of the explosion of Mt. St. Helens. It was expected, but the nature of the eruption was rather atypical. Most volcanoes don’t blow their heads off. St Helens was demoted from the 4th tallest mountain in the state to the 14th in a matter of seconds. The primary eruptives were pyroclastics (ash and cinders) rather than lava, which was the stuff that led to the burial and preservations of the forest mammals at the John Day fossil site.
Mt. St. Helens. Sleeping.

On average, St, Helens erupts every 125 years. Sometimes pyroclastics, sometimes lava. Two thousand years ago it spewed a large volume of fluid, basaltic lava that resulted in two geological features that we visited today.

Imagine a river of lava that, as it cools on the outside surfaces, forms a solid crust on the top, bottom and sides. Meanwhile the interior is still a hot liquid which eventually drains out, leaving what looks like a hollow pipe called a lava tube. Ape Cave is the local example of such a thing. It resembles a small railway tunnel a few miles in length. While The Bruiser had a little nap in the parking lot, I embarked on a self-guided, underground tour of Ape Cave. Armed with my little LED flashlight I walked about a half mile in utter darkness, and in an environment considerably colder than it once was! My endpoint was a feature called The Meatball, a solid lump that got hung up on the ceiling of the tunnel buoyed up by the underground river of lava. It does look a bit precarious hanging up there and I would think one should be cautious about lingering too long beneath it.

Entrance to a lava tube
The "Meatball".

When I emerged, a busload of 4th graders arrived in the parking lot. I thought that was an excellent opportunity to head for the exit.

This led to a study of a second feature often arising from fluid lava flows, and found just a short distance down the road. When a forest is inundated with basalt, the trees and logs are engulfed and incinerated, but not before the lava hardens around them. Tree casts result. Once the wood disappears, the logs become tunnels and the tree trunks cylindrical holes in the flow.

As the day warmed up, the curvy roads became a wee bit of fun until they ultimately led us to the dreaded I-5. Juiced up on the good stuff, The Bruiser pulled me along in excellent form. This bike impresses me so much with its smooth and gutsy character, forever reliable and a real treat to ride. He is nimble in the corners (not so much in the gravel, although he got a bit huffy at my ‘hippo in spandex’ remark) and steady on the straightaways. Thank you, Bruiser, for your stalwartliness and dependability as we covered 1/3 of the earth’s circumference in the last seven weeks.
The rainforest

Beginning of the Last Leg

Personally, I have about hit the wall. I have had the experience of a lifetime and I am most fortunate to have had the opportunity and the wherewithal to pull it off. But I am about done. I would need a good pause right about now before I could do much more.

Initially I considered a motel in Seattle tonight where I will meet Brent at noon tomorrow. Truth is, I much prefer the outdoors. So after buying myself a new air mattress (my ass hit the ground at midnight last night) we established ourselves at Millersylvania State Park near Olympia. It is busy and noisy as the first hint of summer has arrived for the weekend. I treasure my solitude, but quite enjoy the energy of this place this evening.

My neighbour is a good fellow with plans for some great and ambitions adventures in life, but who must first climb some hurdles with chemotherapy.

Opportunity and wherewithal….

Good fortune and adversity are not evenly disbursed.

A Chilean cab is going down rather well. There will be none left for breakfast.